Makeup has been used for centuries to enhance the skin and conceal imperfections. Formulas have certainly come a long way since the days of lead-based poisons in Victorian England and mud mixtures in ancient Egypt. Today’s concealers and foundations are created to multitask, concealing and enhancing while also protecting skin against environmental damage and reducing inflammation.
BLEMISH COVERUPS
Be your clients’ go-to source for blemish corrections by helping them minimize the appearance of their imperfections, both in and out of the treatment room with these key tips for specific skin imperfections. Incorporate them into your makeup applications, steer clients toward the right cosmeceuticals and counsel them on the best practices for their home care routines.
ACNE
Acne is most common in adolescents, due to teenage hormonal imbalances; however, it can also occur into adulthood and menopause from hormonal imbalances as well. Concealing acne requires camouflaging raised areas as well as pigmented and red areas.
Advise your clients with acne-prone skin to avoid over-the-counter makeup, which may contain high levels of comedogenic oils that congest the skin and cause acne to worsen. The term “acne cosmetic” refers to a skin condition that directly results from using irritating makeup ingredients on acne-prone skin.
Oils & co medogenic ratings
The “comedogenicity” of oil refers to its pore-blocking potential, an important term to know when treating congested, acneic or inflamed skin. Refer to this chart for comedogenic ratings of key cosmeceutical ingredients.
0 Will not clog pores
- Safflower oil
- Shea butter
- Sunflower oil
- Argan oil
- Ceresin wax
- Hemp seed oil
- Squalane
1 Low comedogenicity
- Castor oil
- Candelilla wax
- Carnuba wax
- Lanolin wax
- Calendula oil
- Neem oil
- Sea buckthorn oil
- Rosehip oil
- Pomegranate oil
2 Moderately low comedogenicity
- Almond oil
- Apricot kernel oil
- Avocado oil
- Borage oil
- Evening primrose oil
- Grape seed oil
- Hazelnut oil
- Olive oil
- Peach kernel oil
- Peanut oil
- Pumpkin seed oil
- Sesame oil
- Tamanu oil
- Beeswax
- Emulsifying wax (National Formulary)
- Jojoba oil (although technically a liquid wax)
3 Moderate comedogenicity
- Corn oil
- Cotton seed oil
- Soybean oil
- Shark liver oil
- Jojoba oil (sulphated)
4 Relatively high comedogenicity
- Cocoa butter
- Coconut butter
- Coconut oil
- Palm oil
- Flaxseed (linseed) oil
5 High comedogenicity
- Wheat germ oil
When working with acneic skin, avoid using silicone-containing “primers” beneath foundation. While silicones are not technically comedogenic, silicone- based emollients are occlusive and produce a coating on the surface of skin. This occlusion does not clog pores, but it can cause impurities and toxin-loaded sweat to be trapped beneath the silicone film, which may cause irritation and prevent proper skin functioning. Dimethicone in particular should be avoided with acneic skin types, as it is known to cause acute breakouts.
Instead, use mineral-based ingredients, particularly those containing high levels of natural zinc oxide, which reduces inflammation associated with acne and down regulates the stimulation of testosterone in the bloodstream. High levels of testosterone are directly related to excess oil in the sebaceous glands and acne congestion.
Reduce the appearance of existing acne blemishes with non-comedogenic concealers and natural earthbased pigments that do not irritate the skin. Conceal red acne blemishes with a green-based concealer, and use a color close to the client’s natural skin tone for brown hyperpigmented scars. For severe pigmentation, opt for concealer with a hint of lilac.
SCARS
Raised or depressed scars are difficult to conceal. Camouflaging them usually requires application by a professional makeup artist. Avoid shimmery makeup and opt for a matte finish. A shine-free mineral setting powder is ideal for minimizing an uneven reflection of light off a scar or raised blemish.
Pigmented scars may be either red or yellow-based. Depending on the color, opt for green or lilac-based concealer (their opposites on the color wheel). Apply lightly onto the scar and blend around the edges. Apply regular mineral makeup over the top, and pat it in instead of rubbing, to avoid moving the base concealer.
HYPERPIGMENTATION
When covering up any form of hyperpigmentation, it is essential to apply concealer and foundation in light layers rather than one thick layer, to prevent it from clinging to the skin throughout the day. Dab concealer and foundation onto the hyperpigmented area with a damp makeup sponge to achieve lighter layers.
Alternatively, apply thin layers in a feathering and blending motion using a fine vegan brush. Avoid creating defined edges, which can look unnatural. Alternate between thin layers of concealer and loose mineral foundation to lock in coverage and finish with a dusting of setting powder.
PSORIASIS/ECZEMA
Psoriasis and eczema are both chronic skin conditions that affect men and women of all ages. Although these conditions are persistent and frustrating, they can be controlled and concealed with the right skin care and makeup regimens.
Psoriasis is characterized by excess production of skin cells, while eczema is characterized by skin that is not only flaking but also continually irritated. Both are difficult to camouflage. Before applying makeup, remove any loose, dry flakes on the surface on the skin. This can be achieved by applying a thick, occlusive product such as natural polymerised castor bean oil or shea butter to a soft muslin cloth and wiping gently to remove surface scales. Avoid aggressive physical or acid-based exfoliants.
Avoid shimmery or dry powder foundations, which can highlight dry, flaking skin. Utilize concealers containing anti-inflammatory ingredients such as sea buckthorn, jojoba and argan oils, which minimize inflammation and irritation. Liquid or cream-based mineral foundations containing zinc oxide have similar effects as well. Cream formulas are preferable to liquid formulas for covering psoriasis and eczema. If using a green-based concealer to camouflage redness, ensure it is a natural pigment rather than artificial color, which may irritate the skin.
Apply makeup in gentle dabbing motions with a damp, clean makeup sponge, and do not apply foundation or concealer to open skin.
ROSACEA
Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory condition in which superficial blood vessels are constantly dilated. This results in the appearance of facial flushing, usually in the cheeks, and often extending to the forehead, chin and neck. Severe forms of rosacea can even result in pustular eruptions on the skin, which are unrelated to acne.
Camouflage diffuse redness with a green-based mineral concealer that does not contain artificial colors or potential irritants. Since rosacea covers a large area of the face, the green concealer may be applied with a larger brush or makeup sponge in fine layers, alternating with the foundation color matched to the client’s skin tone.
You can create foundation specifically for rosacea clients by mixing mineral makeup powder with an antiinflammatory oil such as sea buckthorn oil (at a 1:1 ratio). This liquid and oil-based formula provides sufficient coverage while also reducing the appearance of redness.
BRUISES
Facial bruising is becoming increasingly common, due to the rising popularity of anti-wrinkle injections and fillers. They are also arguably the most difficult skin issue to camouflage. A bruise evolves from blue, to black, to purple and to yellow over the course of 10 days, so concealing bruises requires correcting many different colors. Work with alternating light layers of colored concealer and foundation according to the color wheel, using either a makeup sponge or soft vegan brush.
SUNBURN
The first step to working with sunburned skin is to allow it to heal and advise clients to avoid makeup until all inflammation has been resolved. Niacinamide, retinol and L-ascorbic acid are excellent cosmeceuticals to repair the skin barrier, address UV damage and reduce inflammation. Utilize makeup containing anti-inflammatory minerals and healing oils to reduce irritation on skin. Advise these clients to use makeup containing zinc oxide in the future to help prevent against sunburn.
TATTOOS
When camouflaging tattoos, refer to the color wheel. Apply a fine layer of the opposite color of the tattoo. Follow by applying multiple thin layers of a concealer that matches the skin tone as closely as possible. Blend the edges of the concealer with feathering brush strokes. Finish with dabs of setting powder to prevent the camouflage from transferring and moving during the day.
The key to creating a radiant glow is to provide your clients with natural but complete coverage anti blemish makeup. Refer to the color wheel, and always use the concealer shade that is opposite to the skin tone you are camouflaging. Your client’s makeup should work in synergy with their skin and support its function throughout the day. It’s all about making clients feel confident in their skin!
