In 1984, the term cosmeceutical was introduced by Dr. Albert Kligman, developer of Retin-ATM, to distinguish those topical preparations that could effectively deliver therapeutic benefits to the skin, as well as the “beautifying” temporary effects of cosmetics, as defined by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in 1938. A prescription ointment, Retin-A effectively delivered retinoic acid, a powerful form of vitamin A, into the skin. The success of Retin-A triggered a frenzy of research to formulate functional raw materials into elegant compounds that would not require a prescription. In choosing to include an active ingredient in a formulation, a critical evaluation is required by researchers to determine what quantity of that material was actually utilized by the body. The word for this is bioavailability.
Let us remember the most significant role the skin plays—it is a vigilant gatekeeper! It keeps what is outside the body out, and what is inside the body from falling or leaking out. The skin is brilliantly designed with intricate back-up systems, always on alert. The selective permeability of skin is well-known, serving as a dynamic barrier, while constantly monitoring for incoming toxins and pathogens. So, getting a sufficient quantity of useful elements to a point where they can do any good can become quite a challenge for the skin care formulator.
Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa
CONTINUE READING YOUR ARTICLE WITH A LNE MEMBERSHIP
