For the past few years, our industry has been asking a question that began with an apprehensive whisper and has now grown to a curious roar. The question is: What is CBD? The simplest answer is: Cannabidiol (CBD) is a chemical compound, a phytocannabinoid, from the cannabis sativa plant that works with a system already existing in our bodies, the Endocannabinoid System (ECS). The ECS was discovered by a group of Israeli researchers and named in the early 1990s. The ECS communicates with all the systems in our body and effectively works to establish homeostasis, or balance. Phytocannabinoids, like CBD, work alongside endocannabinoids (made by our bodies) to signal the ECS into action.
Based on increasing understanding and popularity, we have seen an influx of CBD-infused products in the spa and skin care market. The reason? There is scientific and anecdotal evidence that shows using quality products containing CBD helps to address our client’s main skin concerns: Aging, Acne, Pigment and Sensitivity.
In each skin concern, we can identify an imbalance:
This process is too slow: Aging is a slowing of cell production compounded by lazy elastin and collagen production. With that slowing, there’s an opportunity for delinquent melanin to creep in and present as age spots and other signs of the regrettable “fun in the sun” had up to this point. Because the ECS is critically responsible for the life cycle of basal skin cells, encouraging the ECS with topically applied CBD will help regulate production of healthy, vibrant, radiant skin.
These processes are too fast: Acne can be the result of an over or underproduction of oil, an overproduction of skin cells, an imbalance of bacteria, or sometimes, the perfect storm of all three. Science has shown CBD works to regulate sebum production while calming irritated skin and protecting pigment from trauma. As well, sensitive skin can be a result of overstimulation. Acting as an anti-inflammatory, CBD begins to calm and then strengthen compromised, irritated skin.
This makes everything just right – CBD can be a real powerhouse ingredient. It is an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and acts as an antibacterial, antitumoral and antimicrobial. Studies have shown it to regulate sebum production and melanogenesis while simultaneously regulating cell proliferation and differentiation. Currently, there are no known contraindications in using CBD-infused skin care. By adding CBD into your treatment offerings, in addition to retail home care, your clients will notice an emerging complexion that is clear, even and youthful.
NOT EVERY CBD PRODUCT IS CREATED EQUALLY.
With the rising popularity and curiosity building around CBD infusions, we have seen several emerging product brands that appear to be jumping on a trend that’s not fully understood. Legitimate companies will take several factors into consideration for formulation.
Considerations for CBD products should be the following:
Hemp vs. Marijuana – CBD extracted from industrial hemp is considered federally legal because of the Agricultural Act (farm bill) of 2014 and further clarifications specified in the Agricultural Act (farm bill) of 2018. The legality of CBD extracted from marijuana will currently be determined on a state-by-state basis. To err on the side of legal caution, and because the molecular structure of CBD is the same regardless, it may be in one’s best interest to ensure any CBD incorporated into products originates from plants classified as industrial hemp. Further, be sure you are compliant with local and state industrial hemp regulations.
Where is it grown? Because hemp is a bio-accumulator and pulls toxins from the soil and air, hemp should be grown using organic practices domestically (in the U.S.), where organic hemp farming is held to specific agricultural regulatory standards. There is no guarantee of source or efficacy if purchasing CBD from overseas.
How is it extracted? The cleanest way to extract CBD used in skin care formulations, while protecting reliable efficacy, is supercritical C02 extraction. There are several extraction methods, however this method allows measurable purity, which will result in product consistency.
What’s in the formula? CBD is powerful, but cannot work effectively without the help of some complimentary ingredients:
- Skin-friendly oils rich in omega fatty acids like Organic Hemp Seed Oil or Organic Rose Hip Seed Oil help CBD penetrate and enhance communication with the receptors in the ECS.
- Botanical lightening agents such as organic licorice, mulberry root and organic watermelon extract compliment the melanin regulation properties CBD provides.
- As a super antioxidant, CBD pairs well with other well-known antioxidants in Vitamins A, C and E.
- If you want a super anti-inflammatory to use post-laser, post-chemical peel or even post-wax, look for the power couple of CBD and Macadamia Nut oil and watch your client’s skin calm right before your eyes.
- Advanced product formulations also include peptides and stem cells, which further enhance healthy cell proliferation and differentiation.
- Because you are a sophisticated skin care practitioner, be sure you are using products that are intentionally crafted with high quality, effective ingredients that encompass more than CBD, essential oils and coconut oil, even if it is fractionated.
- Additionally, be sure to find a company led by those who are passionate about accurately educating on the healing properties CBD provides and not just capitalizing on an inaccurately perceived trend.
How and where do you incorporate CBD in your menu of services?
Everywhere! Whether you want to offer CBD throughout your services, or add as an enhancement option, CBD will help calm, soothe, heal and revitalize any skin in treatment. It works to support the controlled healing process both pre- and post-laser or chemical peel. CBD provides a supportive anti-aging, acne facial treatment and it can be used to calm post-wax, even preventing ingrown hairs.
Here is an example of a complete CBD facial:
- Cleanse (first and/or second) – A cleanser infused with CBD excites the ECS and prepares it to receive messages from following product applications. Use an ultrasonic spatula to remove cleanser to get a head start in the following exfoliation and dis-incrustation process.
- Exfoliator – Whether mechanical or enzymatic, using a CBD-infused exfoliator provides an even removal of skin cells, while providing an anti-inflammatory property ensuring the skin stays calm and uncompromised.
- Post Extraction – Try a CBD-infused toner or serum post-extraction to provide toning, anti-bacterial properties.
- Massage – Facial massage may seem like an obvious place to add CBD-infused products, but the analgesic and anti-inflammatory effects CBD provides will only work to enhance massage efficiency, thus increasing the client experience. No matter how corrective your treatments are, a good massage to the neck and shoulders is a great way to keep them coming back.
- Masque – A CBD-infused masque combined with active ingredients can be used for a variety of intentional purposes, from brightening to hydrating and even anti-aging. Because masque application sets for eight-15 minutes, this is an opportunity for CBD to really penetrate and work its magic.
- Serum – A serum containing ingredients such as CBD, hyaluronic acid and firming peptides works universally to support healthy, vibrant skin and is great for most (if not all) clients.
- Moisturize and Protect – A balancing moisturizer including or followed by a full-spectrum, physical sunscreen is the perfect way to complete this treatment. Look for CBD complimented with UV reparative agents (watermelon extract for example) complimented with Zinc or Titanium.
Whether you decide to incorporate CBD into your treatments now or later, you should take time to understand it. Your clients are hearing about CBD and it will be a matter of time before they ask you about its powerful possibilities. Find a credible, authentic company to help you along the way. If you are more of a self-learner, explore scientific studies published by credible peer-reviewed agencies and avoid the potential misinformation in Google searching.
