As one of the few “gold standards” in skin care, retinol has been a staple in every esthetician’s arsenal for decades. And, it’s no doubt that it will continue to be a first-rate treatment for decades to come. Whether aiming to treat hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, acne scars, or large pores, retinol is a skin care powerhouse. But, as with most ingredients in today’s age of technology, more naturally derived compounds with similar benefits are taking the stage. The green revolution is finally matching up to the power of synthetic active ingredients. Such is the case with retinol’s new, natural counterpart: Bakuchiol. Making waves in the topical skin care world, find out why bakuchiol is the new natural alternative to retinol.
Retinol Refresh
Before we can evaluate the present and future of retinol skin care, let’s take a step back and take a look at how we got here. Retinoic acid, the predecessor of today’s modern retinol, has been isolated and used topically for almost a century. Retinoic acid is the active molecule that interacts with specific receptors in the skin, leading to biologic changes in the skin. Retinoic acid was the original prescription choice of physicians for topical use, but its surface activity has typically caused irritation, redness and discomfort in many who use this topical. Retinol is the precursor, or pro-drug, of retinoic acid. This means that topically applied retinol converts into retinoic acid, usable by the skin.
Retinol is less stimulating on the surface of the skin, leading to reduced irritation and therefore a higher likelihood of client compliance and positive skin improvement.Retinol itself was first isolated in the 1930s, but in a very unstable form. The first study using retinoids to treat acne was published in 1943, and tretinoin, the retinoid most commonly used today, was first used topically for skin conditions in 1958. Its use in anti-aging treatments was pioneered in the 1980’s.
Today, retinol is available over the counter in a variety of forms. Adapalene, a retinol derivative popular for treating acne is now available over the counter in the United States, previously only available with a doctor’s prescription. Most consumer brands have some form of retinol in their range, though decidedly not a strong as professional strength options found in dermatologist offices and esthetician treatment rooms.
What is Bukuchiol?
While is seems retinol is now common place in skin care, it’s now getting a run for it’s money from the latest natural retinol alternative: bukuchiol. Bukuchiol is an extract found in the seeds and leaves of the Psoralea corylifolia plant and the Otholobium pubescent plant. Native to India, the Psoralea corylifolia plant blooms soft purple flowers. In fact, some topical products using the ingredient even have a purple hue. Recently, the plant-based retinol alternative has exploded in popularity. Bukuchiol is high in antioxidants that are found in the seeds of the psoralen corylifolia plant.The overall benefits of the extract include:
- Smoothing Skin Texture
- Lightening Hyperpigmentation
- Skin Firming
- Photo Damage Repair
- Diminish Lines and Wrinkles
Let’s dive deeper into how this trending ingredient compares to our good friend, retinol.
Comparison
Retinol works by increasing cell turnover from the inside out. Unlike a peel, that exfoliates from the outer layers of the skin, retinol works by speeding up the production of new skin cells within the skin, encouraging the old cells to rise to the top and slough off. When applied to the skin, retinol interacts with retinoic acid receptors in the skin and triggers a biochemical domino effect that leads to activation of certain genes that control collagen production, and reduction of the release of inflammatory mediators. The process of accelerated skin turnover associated with retinol is often confused for exfoliation. It’s not. Although it can cause shedding of the skin, it is not a traditional exfoliant in the way that acids and scrubs are, working on the top layers of the skin.
Bukuchiol doesn’t quite function in the same way. But, like retinol, bukuchiol has shown a promising ability to increase cellular turnover. In fact, a 12-week study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science comparing retinol and bakuchiol showed “significant improvement in lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, elasticity, firmness and overall reduction in photo-damage,” without undesirable retinol side effects such as dryness and irritation when using bakuchiol. 46 percent of participants saw skin brightening; 39 percent saw an improvement in their skin tone; 52 percent saw increased skin radiance; 46 percent saw an improvement in the eye area; 29 percent saw decreased appearance of lines and wrinkles; and 39 percent saw increased skin firmness. Bukuchiol is also anti-inflammatory and gentle for all skin types. And, unlike retinol, bukuchiol is safe to use on clients who are pregnant or breastfeeding. Overall, bukuchiol is a much gentler alternative to retinol.
Another benefit of incorporating bukuchiol into your treatment plans is that it does not have the same reutilization period as traditional retinols do. Retinization is the skin’s adjustment period. During the first few weeks of retinol usage, clients may experience increased skin shedding, flaking or surface dryness. It is important to remind your clients that their skin is simply adjusting, and to continue use of the product. Although topical retinoids can bring about profound changes in the skin of both acne and mature skin clients, many clients fall off the “retinol bandwagon” because they cannot tolerate the flaking, dryness and irritation.
Bukuchiol does not trigger the same adjustment period and it can be used safely without any risk of flaking, dryness or irritation that comes with retinol usage.
Recommended Usage
Bukuchiol extract is most commonly found in serums. Incorporate this retinol alternative into your facial protocols after a thorough topical exfoliation. Encourage clients who are new to retinols, or those who have tried retinol in the past but couldn’t bare the side effects to use a bukuchiol serum twice daily. Bukuchiol is suitable for clients with aging skin, hyperpigmentation and even acne.
The skin care industry is driving full force towards finding new, more stable and less irritating natural alternatives to some of our favorite active ingredients. With more and more clients requesting more organic and natural skin care treatments and home care, we can be empowered in knowing that today’s modern natural can provide clients with results similar to those that are obtained with conventional active ingredients.
