Makeup application on an aging woman can be a double-edged sword. When applied correctly, it can make her look fresh and youthful. However, if applied too heavily or with a dated technique, it can add years to her appearance.
Just in time to prepare your makeup specials for Mother’s Day this month, it’s essential to learn techniques to keep your mature clients looking and feeling beautiful.
Just in time to prepare your makeup specials for Mother’s Day this month, it’s essential to learn techniques to keep your mature clients looking and feeling beautiful.
COMPLEXION
Conceal
Aging skin typically has various undertones that must be evened out. Mineral makeup works best on rosacea, or skin that is red. Stipple minerals over the affected area using a synthetic brush and apply light layers until the red tones have diminished. The heat from rosacea skin “grabs” the minerals, giving the foundation long-lasting wear.Brush a minimal amount onto the unaffected areas to even the complexion. If the skin has hyperpigmentation, apply a concealer the same tone as the skin to these areas and blend out the edges until it goes unnoticed. Apply a foundation and set with mineral powder.
Foundation — When selecting foundation, consider the color of the face, neck and décolleté. It is important that the foundation balances the undertones and creates harmony. When in doubt, choose a color that’s slightly darker, rather than lighter, so it warms the skin. Going too light can make the skin look flat.
Keep the foundation application light and dewy for dry skin. A sheer liquid or BB crème gives a glow to mature skin. Set with a light dusting of mineral makeup before applying color to ensure long-lasting wear.
For oily skin, start with a mattifying product to tone down shine. Be careful with traditional powder, which sometimes contains talc. Talc can fill lines and make the skin appear even older. Instead, try a light dusting of mineral makeup as a foundation or to set a liquid product.
Enhance
Blush — Brush sparingly up along the cheekbone, using the center of the eye as a guide for the starting point. This sweep gives the illusion of pulling the face upward, creating a slimming effect. Applying the blush too far below the cheekbone pulls the face down. A soft pink or coral gives a pop of soft color and brightens the face.Bronzers, Contouring and Highlighting — Be careful with bronzers and contouring, they can end up looking muddy and dull on aging skin. A highlighter with a cool or pink undertone typically works best for very fair skin and a highlighter with a peachy or golden glow is great for medium to dark skin.
Use highlighting products that add a glow rather than a sparkle, staying away from facial lines. When used correctly, highlighting products can have a softening effect, blurring flaws and diffusing light to make the skin look youthful.
EYES
Conceal
Choose a concealer that either matches the skin tone or is half a shade lighter. When concealer is too light, it accents the lines around the eyes. If the undereye circles are dark, a yellow or peach concealer neutralizes the purple undertones and brightens the eyes. Use a synthetic brush to apply a small amount of concealer only to the dark areas of the eyes. Before eyeshadow, apply a primer to the eyelid to conceal discoloration from thinning skin.Enhance
Hooded Eyes — When applying eyeshadow to an eyelid where the skin is loose and wrinkled, select a color close to the client’s skin tone. Use color on the outside of the eye in a triangular shape to lift the eye and draw attention away from the aging skin.Eyeliner — Keep the line on the upper lid close to the lash line so it appears to be an extension of the lashes, being careful not to make the line too thick, as this can be aging. For a youthful eye, apply liner to both the upper and lower lash line, and connect the lines at the outer corner of the eye. Liner under the lash line should be soft and blended. Blend with a small, firm brush dusted with a shadow to keep liner from traveling.
Brows — A defined brow gives a youthful lift to any eye, especially an aging one. Do not tweeze gray hair, rather brush on a color close to the natural tone or use a colored brow gel to help hide the gray. If brows are unruly, set them with brow gel or hair spray. If brows are thin, reshape and define them using a powder the same tone as the brow color. Keep brows softly defined by blending the brow color and setting color with a brow gel. Brow colors should be the same shade as the hair. For blonde hair, match the roots; for silver or white hair, go for a soft gray tone and try a mahogany or sable for brunettes or redheads.
Lashes — If the lashes are straight, curl them to lift the eyes and make them appear more youthful. To apply mascara, wiggle the spoolie back and forth from the roots to the tips for maximum coverage, separation and length. Be sure the mascara is fresh so it glides on the lashes; dry mascara does not coat evenly and clumps.
LIPS
Conceal
Along with thinning, lips tend to be drier and wrinkle with age. These individual concerns need to be taken into consideration when choosing and applying lip products.Color Selection — Teeth look less white as we age. If the teeth have yellowed, stay away from lipsticks or gloss with yellow or orange undertones. Pinks, soft plums, reds and colors with blue undertones are more favorable on mature women.
Enhance
Lip Liner — After lining outer lips, use the liner to fill in the lips. This helps the lipstick and gloss stay on longer and keeps it from bleeding into fine lines. Choose a lip liner that is close to the natural color of the lip. Do not use a liner darker than the lipstick, this dated method adds years to the look.Lipstick or Lip Gloss — If lips are dry, apply a lip moisturizer five to 10 minutes before applying color products. Unless lips are in great condition, stay away from shimmer. It can get caught in the fine lines, making the lips appear older and drier than they are. Dark shades can also be aging and make the lips appear thinner. Opt for a lip gloss or sheer hydrating lipstick if your client insists on a dark color. Matte lipsticks are also not easy for a mature woman to wear, as they look flat on the lips. It is not always in your client’s best interest to go with the latest trends!
Most importantly, encourage clients to take care of themselves from the inside out. Proper diet, rest and exercise have a significant impact on overall health. It is never too late to start taking the right steps to a healthier lifestyle.
No amount of cream, lotions or potions outweigh the benefits of staying hydrated, eating nourishing foods and protecting skin from the sun, free radicals and pollutants we are exposed to every day. Encourage a customized skin care regimen that addresses your client’s unique concerns and treats her as an individual. Try setting aside a couple minutes at the beginning of the session to find out what her greatest concerns and favorite features are (it might not be what you assume). There is no one size fits all option when it comes to makeup, regardless of age.
