As a makeup artist and educator, the question I receive more than any other is: “What color would be best for my eyes?” It’s not surprising that consumers feel overwhelmed or confused by the thousands of options available, not to mention evolving makeup trends.
Statista.com reported that in 2016, eyeliner sales in the U.S. alone generated $617 million, with eye shadows adding $324 million. This shows how much power professional artists hold to influence and guide clients’ choices in this popular category. A clear understanding of color theory, expert application skills and the ability to effectively share this knowledge with clients can make all the difference in ensuring they feel their confident best, through their own eyes!
FUNDAMENTALS
Consider these essential points for every eye makeup application:
CONCEAL – Before applying any color product to the eyes, make sure the skin around the eyes looks hydrated, fresh and clean. Even the most beautiful eye makeup is diminished if dark circles or discoloration are not properly concealed.
PRIME – Always use an eye primer under eye makeup to avoid creasing or blotchiness and to add longevity. Primers come in many colors so they can be used to start the base color of the look, as well as to color correct and help conceal.
KEEP THE RIGHT TOOLS – Stock a variety of high quality brushes for application and change brushes when you change colors. This gives you more control and precision, and ensures that colors come out true and vivid.
WORK INCREMENTALLY – Apply color gradually. Never go straight to the darkest or brightest color; start subtle and graduate the intensity. This gives you more control and allows you to create the exact intensity you desire.
CONTRAST, DON’T MATCH – When applying colors to the eyes, it is rarely wise to go monochromatic or try to match the eye color. The concentrated pigment of eye shadows almost always appears more vivid than the natural eye, thus making the actual eye color look duller by comparison. The best results are typically achieved by reaching the opposite end of the color spectrum. Natural hues can also be used to optimize eye enhancement, regardless of eye color. Natural or muted colors are universal and can be applied with a variety of intensity levels, from natural beige to full smoke.
COLOR THEORY — HUE, DEPTH AND SATURATION
Colors have three important dynamics we must understand — hue, depth and saturation. All three of these dynamics impact the way a makeup application turns out.
- The hue is the actual shade of the color. If we use the wrong hue, we cannot properly complement the color of the eye.
- The depth refers to how dark or light the color is. Even if we use the right hue, we may overpower the eye if we use too dark or too light of a color. Artists commonly choose depths of colors that are in sync with the depth of the skin.
- The saturation refers to how muted or vivid the color is. Even if the hue and depth are correct, the look can come out looking harsh or garish if we use a color that is too saturated.
HUE
RED
YELLOW
BLUE
DEPTH
LIGHT
MEDIUM
DARK
SATURATION
SUBTLE
MODERATE
INTENSE
THE COLOR WHEEL: CONTRAST AND COMPLEMENT
- Blue Eyes – Orange, at the opposite side of the color spectrum from blue, creates the most contrast and enhancement for a blue eye. Variations of orange include gold, copper, rust, peach and salmon. Brown shades with orange undertones like terra cotta, tan and nude are also great options for enhancing blue eyes.
- Green Eyes – Red is on the opposite side of the color spectrum from green, but red eye makeup can often make the eyes look bloodshot or unhealthy. Purple or red-purple are usually the best choices for translating this to eye makeup, as purple is one step over from red on the color wheel and provides a nice contrast. Variations of purple include violet, fuchsia, magenta, mauve and lilac. Brown-purples like burgundy or wine also allow for excellent green eye enhancement.
- Brown Eyes – Blue is on the opposite side of the color spectrum from brown (orange is the base tone of brown), but just as red may be too intense for a green eye, blue eye makeup often looks garish or unnatural. Gray tones work as a more natural stand-in, creating a cool contrast against the warmth of the brown eye. Variations on this color include gray, silver, platinum, pale blues and gray-blues. If a good combination of these cool tones is used, the eye color can literally look more orange in comparison. It’s a beautiful, intense look.
- Hazel Eyes (brown and green) – Because there are two components of color in this eye color, using two color tones (in this case, gray and purple) delivers maximum enhancement. Look carefully at the eye to decide which color is more prominent and apply accordingly. For example, on an eye that is primarily green with gold or brown flecks or undertones, apply a cool taupe gray shadow to the outer corner or crease and then apply a lilac or magenta shadow onto the lid directly above the iris.
- Aqua or Teal Eyes (blue and green) – Both gold and purple tones offer beautiful enhancement for this eye color and can bring out the pure aqua hues in the iris. Start with a burgundy or purple brown in the outer corner and then apply a luminous gold or orange to the lower lash line and lid.
THE IMPORTANCE OF HIGHLIGHT COLORS
When speaking of eye shadow colors, it’s easy to only consider the principal shadow color. But in reality, the highlight color used can make or break the final look. When choosing the highlight color, consider the tone and depth of the skin. If the highlighter used is too bright, the result is heavy or fake looking. A highlighter that is too dark, on the other hand, won’t deliver enough intensity. The best results are achieved with highlighter colors that are one or two levels lighter than the depth of the skin, and preferably the opposite of the main shadow colors being used.
For example, if we use gray shadows, a light, warm peachy highlighter complements the look. If we’re using warm brown or gold shadows, a cool white or off white highlighter complements the look. Most importantly, if your client has mature skin or wrinkled eyelids, avoid using shimmery highlighters on the inner eye. Instead of going with shimmer, go a shade lighter with the highlighter color than you normally would. Matte shadows minimize the appearance of texture. Always ensure that you have plenty of highlighter colors in your drawer. If clients only purchase the main shadow colors from you, they won’t get the full effect at home.
THE FINISHING TOUCH
When completing an eye makeup application, the following three factors have a distinct impact on the final look:
STRONG BROWS, now one of the hottest trends on the market, can either finish a look perfectly or push it over the edge. When choosing the color for brow makeup, look at the brow hair color and avoid going too dark. Add warm red or copper tones for clients with warm tones in their hair. Use a light, gold tone to enhance blonde brows. Just as it is essential to conceal around the eye before applying shadows, always perfect the skin around the brows so that they pop against the clean backdrop of flawless skin.
EYELINER can either be similar to the color of the shadows or more vivid, because the color is closer to the actual eye and does not cover as much space as the eye shadow. A pop of intense colored liner looks beautiful against well-blended shadows. For example, gray shadows can be beautifully finished with blue liner, lilac shadows with fuchsia liner, and brown shadows with deep red liner. The best results are achieved when the heaviest liner is applied to the top lash line and the under eye is designed with a lighter hand.
MASCARA allows the lashes to participate in the color theme and doesn’t have to be limited to the traditional black or brown. For example, warm brown mascara can smartly enhance blue eyes, and navy mascara looks beautiful on brown eyes. For green eyes, red mascara looks incredible. If you do not have red mascara, squeeze a squeezable mascara out onto a blending surface and mix in a hint of red blush or lip stain to create your own dark red or burgundy.
I encourage you to incorporate these tips for perfect eye makeup into your professional education sessions, client classes, applications and individual client conversations. Learning to “optimeyes” for eye color is an easy, eye-opening way to refresh your clients’ look and boost their confidence in the process!
