The Big Comeback of 1990s MakeupRevamp The Nostalgic Look For Your Spa Clients

by Maureen Castellon

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The 90s are the perfect example of how a decade can have two juxtaposed, defining makeup looks. Grunge ruled the airwaves and streets despite having underground vibes. One of the top looks was neo-gothic with a heavy dose of punk and an urban edge, as seen in the use of brick red lipstick, dark eye colors and matte foundation. In contrast, the 1990s was also the era of beach babes and an almost cartoonish clash of colors, highlighted by periwinkle eyes and bubble gum frosted lips.

With designers increasingly showcasing 90s makeup looks at every Fashion Week, clients are asking to look on point with updated color palettes and techniques.

Eyes

Eye makeup for both light and dark 90s styles venture into the waterline on the top and bottom, which will energize your clients’ looks. A cream liner pencil pairs well with powder shadow in the same tone to enhance the inner corners and lids of the eyes. The easiest way to achieve both the light and dark looks is with colored lids. One 90s staple, periwinkle eye shadow, can be updated with hyper-pigmented pastels applied to the inner corners of eyes or swept over the lid. When using blue, play with the spectrum from navy to periwinkle and every shade in between. For maximum impact, use a shading brush on the lid and a blending brush on the crease. When adding shimmer to the eyes, keep lips neutral and the skin matte. The desired look of the 90s entailed sleeping in your eye makeup and achieving the smudged look naturally. It focuses solely on the upper lid, while the modern smudged eye includes lower liner, which can contain a bold pop of color. For clients with smaller eyes, be careful not to make the line too thick. Instead, pencil the waterline in white to give the illusion of a larger eye. Round eyes benefit from a drawing from the inner corner to the outer one with a line that’s thicker from the outer edge to the center of the iris.

Lips

Pronounced lip liner is another 90s trend that can be updated. Dark lips, such as plums and berries, can pop with the right framework. Begin by slicking on lip balm or primer. Instead of more saturated colors, consider sheen from balms or lipsticks. Liners should be two shades darker than clients’ natural lip color and lipsticks should be one shade darker than the liner for a more natural look. It is important to note that the shades used should be within the same color family. If a client does not want liner, outline lips with a concealer and brush to create a neutral canvas. Avoid black liner on dark lips no matter how deep the shade of plum —coordinate grunge-inspired lipstick and liner to deepen the color instead. The simplest protocol is to apply color, blot, apply color again, then seal blot again with translucent powder. Browns are a modern take on brick red and could go with stain or sheen. Frosted lips now have a refined shimmer and moisture-rich improved formulas, which can make lips look fuller and more natural. They can also be layered with opaque hues one shade lighter than the base color.

Skin

While the emphasis may have been on eyes and lips during the 90s, skin provided the canvas and it was expected to be flawless. Oil was a bad word and it was every makeup artist’s mission to obliterate every drop. The trick to modernizing the matte look is making sure foundation is only one shade lighter than the client’s regular tone. Those leaning toward the au naturel look can achieve an even tone with tinted moisturizer. Avoid the goth-inspired pancake look by moisturizing skin and then adding primer before using foundation. Pressed powder benefits oily skin, but other skin types can forego this 90s staple.

Tips & Tricks

Use sharp, black eyeliner to line eyes right up against the lash line. Pink blush with a hint of shimmer on the apples of cheeks achieves the naturally flushed aesthetic. Choose matte skin or lips, but to update the look avoid having both at the same time. Graphic eyeliner looks best when it’s not competing with a busy shadow palette. Finish eyeliner with squared-off edges rather than a cat’s eye. Consider using cream liner over liquid for clients. Berry lipsticks work on most skin tones, while browns are trickier as they can have an aging effect. Most clients are doing these trends not for their friends or family, but for their social media followers, whether it be for a special occasion or not, so offer to take a few photos in addition to their selfies. Shimmery lips work best when used as a highlighter, such as the center of the lip, rather than the focus.