Retinol is one of the best anti aging ingredients used in skin care. It is a powerful antioxidant, and is very effective at boosting collagen production, evening out pigmentation, and fading dark spots. It is also effective at treating acne and other breakouts.
Despite all the associated skin benefits, not everyone can use retinol or other retinol derivatives. Many clients complain about how products with retinol turn their face red, flaky, and itchy.
Let’s discuss why retinol causes these common side effects. More importantly, we will outline seven easy ways to prevent and reduce these side effects for your clients.
SEVEN COMMON SIDE EFFECTS ASSOCIATED WITH RETINOL
Retinol is one of the most trusted ingredients that can deliver reliable benefits to improve signs of aging. When using it appropriately in a well thought out skin care routine, it can definitely help to reverse signs of aging. Of course, like other potent ingredients, there are side effects.
1. DRY SKIN
Retinol can dry out the skin, especially in the winter. Retinol helps to accelerate the turn over of skin cells and leads to rapid shedding of the top layer of the skin cells.
When this happens, the skin barrier becomes impaired. A healthy skin barrier is needed to prevent excessive water loss from the deeper layer of the skin cells. Increased water loss would dry out the skin.
2. PIMPLES
Although retinol is useful to fight acne, some clients can get more breakouts when they first start using retinol. Clients with prior history of acne should be aware of this potential problem.
If your client experiences a breakout when they first start to use a retinol product, encourage them to not abandon the product right away. Educate them on the benefits, and encourage them to consider continuing the products for a few more weeks, and see if there is any improvement.
Clients should discontinue use only if there are no improvements or worsening of conditions.
3. SENSITIVITY TO SUN
As a rule of thumb, retinol has a high tendency to make skin more sensitive to solar radiation.
As mentioned above, retinol sheds the top layer of skin cells and removes the protective barrier. This will induce a more phototoxic reaction, causing the skin to turn more red and irritated after each sun exposure.
In general, it is best to use a skin care product with retinol at night. This can prevent any potential sun sensitivity. Lastly, remind your clients to wear sunscreen daily for protection.
4. REDNESS
Increased redness is a common experience for many clients who use retinol product in the beginning.
It is not clear exactly why skin turns red. It is hypothesized that retinol causes an increase in shedding of the top layer of skin, and a slow break down of the skin barrier, which can trigger an underlying inflammation in the skin.
Turning red is one of the signs that your skin is inflamed.
Clients with sensitive skin are more likely to get inflammation and redness when they first start using retinol.
5. ITCHY SKIN
Shedding of the cells at the outer layer of the skin leads to inflammation and dryness, which can make clients feel itchy on the face and neck, common areas where they may use retinol.
6. SKIN TIGHTNESS
Their skin may also feel tight. It is another common side effect. The sensation of tightness should not be interpreted as the client’s wrinkles disappearing. In contrast, it only means that their skin is super dry.
7. OTHER SERIOUS ISSUES
There may be more severe issues, including severe itching, redness, burning sensation, and irritation. If you feel like something is not normal, instruct your client to wash off the product.
Lastly remember, just because a client cannot tolerate one product with retinol, it does not mean you can never recommend any products with retinol.
7 WAYS TO PREVENT RETINOL ASSOCIATED SIDE EFFECTS
1. CLEANSE APPROPRIATELY
Always cleanse the areas thoroughly where you are planning to use retinol on your client. It is recommended to use a gentle cleanser and lukewarm water only.
Do not use harsh soaps or cleansers that can further dry out the skin. Lastly, avoid using any mechanical device to scrub or exfoliate the skin.
2. START GRADUALLY
When you are introducing a client to retinol for the first time, try to titrate the dosage slowly.
This can be done in two ways:
First, use a small amount of the product. For example, you can start your client out using a small pea-sized of product per each application. Gradually increase the amount of products after one to two months of usage.
Second, they can start using the product every two to three nights. If the client is able to tolerate the product, you can gradually increase the frequency of application, such as using it every other night and eventually every night.
You are the judge. If you are seeing positive results with no or minimal side effects, then increase the dosage amount and frequency of application. You can adjust the pace and amount as you see fit.
The goal of this titration process is to get the skin to tolerate retinol. This is the best way for any esthetician who wants their client to use a retinol product, but does not want all the redness, irritation, flaking of the skin. (Yes, it is pretty amazing that the skin has the ability to build up the tolerance and respond to different drugs and chemicals.)
Consider holding off any exfoliating treatments until you know the client’s skin has become fully adjusted to the retinol.
3. USING IT NO MORE THAN ONCE A DAY
Do not let clients fall into the trap of overusing any retinol products. It is a common mistake to believe that increased dosage and frequency can speed up the process to make you look younger.
It may expedite the process of removing the wrinkles, but the truth is it can definitely lead to more redness, inflammation, flaking, and shedding. So instruct your client to be patient, and let their skin adjust. Remember, it is better to take your time.
4. DO NOT FORGET YOUR FRIEND, THE SUNSCREEN!
Sunscreen is essential. Daily use of sunscreen can prevent and reverse signs of aging. In this case, retinol can increase sun sensitivity. Clients will need more protection than ever.
5. WATCH OUT FOR THE EYE AREAS
Many clients want to get rid of the fine lines around the eyes. But watch out, eyelid skin is much thinner than other parts of the face and body. Eyelid skin can be more sensitive.
If you instruct your client to use the retinol product around the eyes, they should use a smaller amount of product and avoid applying it too close to the eyes.
6. TEST IT BEFORE USING
It is important to perform a patch test on a small area of the arm before applying the retinol all over the face and other body parts.
The idea is simple. You want to make sure the client does not have an allergy or sensitivities to the product before sending them home with it.
7. DAILY HOMECARE REGIMEN
Consider adding serum or moisturizer to the client’s home regimen to replenish the necessary level of hydration and oil back into the skin. This will help to mitigate the problem of dryness and skin flaking. You can also apply a soothing mask every week to replenish the client’s skin.
