Five years ago, the cost of laser hair removal treatments made them prohibitive for the majority of clients looking for an alternative to waxing. Today, affordable laser hair removal packages can be found in nearly every Groupon offer as centers dedicated to laser treatments pop up in cities nationwide. While there’s no doubt the cost shift has cut into many estheticians’ pockets, more and more estheticians are becoming certified in laser hair removal in an effort to keep the profit in-house.
WAXING VS LASER
Waxing often remains the better choice for clients with light colored hair, as lasers are attracted to pigment in the hair follicle. That’s not to say that the lasers won’t work on light hair, but clients should be prepared for slower results than those with dark hair. Clients with thick, coarse, and dark hair are ideal candidates for laser. Those with darker skin tones or who tan easily may also have a harder time getting results from laser hair removal.
In the past, laser devices had trouble distinguishing between hair follicles and the skin surrounding them if the client’s complexion was dark. However, advances in technology mean that lasers can be manipulated according to skin tone so that skin remains healthy as it works to diminish and deplete the hair by targeting and killing the root. It’s important to note that sometimes hair can be particularly resistant to laser removal. Hormonal changes during the treatment period, which on average is typically between six to eight sessions, also impact the effectiveness.
Laser treatments can be done anywhere there’s hair, but are most effective on the bikini, lip, chin, and underarm areas. Men often see significant results on their backs, chests, and abdomens after the first treatment with less pain than waxing. Laser treatments are recommended every six weeks.
Estheticians regularly wax eyebrows, face, upper lip, legs, arms, underarms, abdomen, bikini line, full bikini, buttocks, chest, back, hands, feet, ears, and nose. Although the time between waxes varies depending on how quickly or coarsely hair grows back, most clients wax every four to six weeks or as frequently as every week.
LASER TYPES
There are three common lasers being used in hair removal. The Diode laser is very effective for both light and dark skin. The Alexandrite laser is the fastest of all laser types and works best for treating larger body areas among clients who have light-to-olive complexions. And then there’s the most well-known, the Nd:YAG. This long-pulse laser can be used safely on all skin types, including tanned skin. It is less effective for light or fine hair when compared to other types of lasers.
WAX TYPES
Soft wax (also known as strip waxing) is applied warm in a thin layer on top of the skin with either a wooden stick or a roller. This is typically used on larger areas of the body, like the arms and legs. Then, a strip of Muslin cloth is put over it and pulled off, removing hair. Soft types of wax get to the tiny, fine hair strands that can’t be seen, leaving skin smooth. But this body wax should only be used once in a session on a particular area (never multiple times), as it will start pulling the skin cells, which can cause bleeding and damage.
Hard body wax is typically used for smaller, more sensitive areas including the upper lip, underarms, and bikini area. This type of body wax is applied warm, directly onto the skin. It is given time to cool and then harden before being pulled off in the opposite direction of the hair growth. A benefit of hard types of wax is that they only bind to the hair, never the skin. The process tends to be less painful than soft body wax and can be applied multiple times, with no damage to the skin.
Fruit body wax works just like hard body wax and is recommended for sensitive skin. It comes loaded with fruit extracts like berries and plum, which means these types of wax are antioxidant-rich and contain vitamins that nourish the skin. Plus, they’re a lot gentler on the skin than basic soft body wax, and hence, can also be costlier. On the upside, using fruit wax won’t leave any marks and it doubles as skin care.
Sugar wax has been around for centuries and is typically made from sugar, lemon, and hot water. Sugar pulls the root of the hair out of the skin, much like soft and hard body waxes, however it’s made with natural ingredients, which is ideal for people with sensitive skin. Similar to hard body wax, sugar wax doesn’t stick to the skin, only the hair, so it can be applied and removed multiple times without causing any skin issues. It can also be used on any part of the body and is a more natural substitute to other types of wax. The hair should be at least a quarter of an inch long for the gel to stick to the hair for removal.
HOW CLIENTS SHOULD PREPARE
If they choose to wax, tell them not to shave! Hair should be grown out to at minimum . of an inch. Avoid scheduling the appointment if it’s the week before their period. Light exfoliation and moisturizing up to the day before treatment are fine. Avoid hot showers or steam, stay out of the sun, and take two Ibuprofen an hour before to help with swelling if prone to inflammation.
If clients choose laser treatments, they should not wax, tweeze, or bleach any hair one month before the session because the root needs to stay intact in order for the laser to effectively destroy the hair. Shave the area the night before or day of so that the laser can penetrate into the root of the hair.
IMPORTANT TO NOTE
Both waxing and laser hair removal are incompatible with certain medicines, especially ones that are photosensitive. Stop those at least one week prior to treatment. Most clients are unaware that antibiotics can be photosensitive, so advise them to postpone a few weeks if they are taking them.
Also avoid using skin care that contains retinoids and AHAs, as the ingredients make the treatment areas more vulnerable to irritation and UV exposure.
AFTERCARE
To prevent clogged pores, it is best not to put any heavy lotions on the skin after waxing. Witch hazel, aloe vera gel, diluted pure lavender or blue chamomile essential oil may be used to soothe the skin. It is recommended to wait 24 hours before applying antiperspirant to underarms after waxing them. Don’t exercise for at least 24hrs. Advise your clients who do Brazilian waxes to bring a fresh pair of cotton undies to change into after to keep germs away. Pores are exposed and more prone to infection post wax. Exfoliate regularly between waxes and don’t shave.
Avoid sun exposure to the area after the laser treatment. If that’s impossible, using sunscreen is highly recommended. Any hair growth between sessions should be shaved off. Don’t wax, tweeze, Nair, or bleach.
POINTS TO PONDER
Some skin types are simply too sensitive to waxing. Make sure to do a thorough consultation prior to service as well as a patch test with the type of wax you will be using. Clients prone to ingrown hairs and moles might be better served with laser hair removal.
While laser hair removal is considered safe, there is always a risk of burning, and the FDA warns that blistering, discoloration, redness, and scarring are also potential side effects. Annual touch-ups are recommended to keep hair growth at bay, and with treatments costing between $30-$300 per area, laser should be viewed as a long-term investment.
